Introduction

According to the signs at each end, the road distance between Land’s End and John o’Groats is 874 miles. There must have been a bit of road building since that figure was measured because Google gave me a road distance of 839 miles. The two places are supposed to represent the extreme ends of the longest overland distance in Britain, although many sources will point out that Duncansby Head, 1.5 miles to the east of John o’Groats, is slightly further.

To the nearest mile, the straight-line distance from Land’s End to John o’Groats (or Duncansby Head) is a mere 602 miles, so the Phantom jet that logged the fastest ever journey of 46 minutes, 44 seconds clearly had a big advantage over the road user.

I have always thought that Lizard Point to Dunnet Head, the most southerly and northerly extremes of mainland Britain, respectively, looked further apart on the map. Indeed, it turns out that point-to-point they are 4 miles further apart, which would have added 19 seconds to the Phantom’s time. By road, however, it seems they are 5 miles nearer. Isn’t Google Earth simply wonderful in helping me work out all this useful information for you?

Anyway, as far as I can estimate, the distance I will be walking is 1,160 miles plus any detours I might make to gather provisions, find camping sites, locate suitable stream crossing points and climb the odd mountain. Let’s call it 1,200 miles for now (I did say earlier that I liked round numbers).

I have noticed that some previous walkers have produced websites with extremely detailed information about their routes, including map references. This is fine if the reader has all the OS maps needed to look up these references (or the relevant mapping software). However, apart from other end-to-end walkers, I cannot imagine many readers having the time or inclination to follow my route in this way.

To enable folks to follow my route, a more practical method is needed, and I believe I have the solution. Anyone with a car probably has one of those big AA Road Atlas’s of Great Britain and Ireland. You know, the 4 miles to the inch maps that say £6.99 on the front cover, but are usually ‘on offer’ at garages for £1.99 or thereabouts. If you haven’t got one, get one now!!! These maps don’t change much over the years. I have the latest 2009 one, which tells you where the speed camera’s are, and I also have a 2002 one which is little different.

Anyway, my route description is based on the AA Road Atlas so that anyone can follow it. The route is described using the place names printed in this map. I have also referred to cycle paths and footpaths that are not necessarily shown, but these provide the additional information necessary for other hikers to precisely trace the route on an OS map. I trust that, this way, I have managed to keep everyone happy.

OK. So here’s the planned route. See what you think.

John o’Groats to Inverness

Well, actually I will be starting from Duncansby Head, for reasons you will know by now if you read the introduction. I then plan to walk 13 miles west to Dunnet Head because (a) I fancy a look, and (b) because it gives me the option of visiting Lizard Point on the way to Land’s End (assuming I have the time and energy) so that there can be no doubt that I really have walked between the two points furthest apart.

Then it’s south through Dunnet village and Castletown, keeping close to the coast until I reach Thurso. After taking time to explore Thurso, I will head south to Halkirk. This will probably be my last opportunity to gather provisions for several days, as I then proceed to Westerdale on the B870 and from here follow the minor road heading in a southwesterly direction, past Dalnawillan Lodge, and ultimately reaching a dead-end at Glutt Lodge.

Now the fun starts. I’m in the Flow Country, which is the largest expanse of blanket bog in Europe. Blanket bog is over 90% water, so it’s going to be wet and soggy. The plan is to continue southwest, bog trotting across the hills of Cnoc Loch Mhadadh (Hill by the loch of the wild dog) and Cnoc an Eireannaich (Hill of the Irishman) until I get to Kildonan for a brief respite. Then it’s on in the same direction, crossing Cnoc nan Crubag Mor (Hill of the big crab?) to reach Balnacoil Lodge, where I continue west along the minor Strath Brora road past Dalreavoch Lodge to Rogart.

According to the OS map, there appears to be a small footpath going south from Rogart, enabling me to join the minor road that goes west from Torboll, turning south after Loch Buidhe and getting me to Bonar Bridge.

I now need to slip around the head of the Dornoch Firth to Kincardine and from here reach Evanton, some 15 miles directly south. Whether I go cross-country or via the B9176 will depend upon local advice concerning access to paths, and how ready I am for yet another water logging.

From Evanton, it’s southwest to Dingwall for a few miles, then southeast to Tore and finally Inverness, avoiding the A-roads as much as possible.

This section should be approximately 137 miles, depending upon the precise route I finally take, and I will be using OS Landranger maps 12, 17, 16, 21 and 26.

Inverness to Fort William

This bit is easy. Just walk southwest in one long (almost) straight line for 73 miles, stopping when you find yourself at Fort William. There will not be much to engage the brain here, route-finding wise, so I suppose that I will just have to enjoy the views. Notable places along the way will be Drumnadrochit, Invermoriston, Fort Augustus, Laggan and Gairlochy.

I had fancied walking this route ever since I walked the West Highland Way, and will be using the Harvey ‘Great Glen Way’ map for this. Conveniently, the route is also shown clearly by a red dotted line in more recent copies of the AA Road Atlas.

Fort William to Kirk Yetholm

The trouble with walking the Great Glen Way is that I am now on the wrong side of the country for my next destination, which is Kirk Yetholm at the northerly end of the Pennine Way in the Scottish Borders.

I didn’t want to proceed using the West Highland Way as I have already walked it, and life is too short to keep doing the same things. I decided that the direct route would be best, even if it did require me to cut straight across some of the wildest and most remote areas of the Central and Southern Highlands. Still, having had a bit of practice in the Flow Country of the Northern Highlands, why not?

So, initially I need to head northeast again for 9 miles, following General Wade’s Military Road that runs roughly parallel to the A82, until I reach Spean Bridge. Then I turn sharply southwest towards Creaguaineach Lodge at the head of Loch Treig. Next, it’s on to Corrour Station, which is one of the most remote railway stations in Britain and has no public roads leading to it. At least I can get the train home from here should I break a leg.

Continuing southeast, the next aiming point is Bridge of Gaur, then Bridge of Balgie, and then south to Killin (no puns about my feet please). If I have the time and energy, and the weather is OK, I might have a go at climbing Ben Lawers along the way. It is located some 6 miles northeast of Killin and at 1,214m is one of the highest mountains in the Southern Highlands.

From Killin, the remainder of the route is relatively straightforward. Initially I walk roughly due east to the head of Loch Lednock, then turn southeast to follow the minor road along Glen Lednock into Comrie.

According to the OS Landranger maps, a dismantled railway track should guide me between Comrie and Creif, some 6 miles to the east. Then it’s roughly south again, through Muthill to Blackford, and across another mountainous bit, the Ochil Hills, to Tillicoultry. I bet you have never heard of the Ochil Hills before? Well, nor had I. There is a Ski Tow and a Mountain Rescue Centre at Tillicoultry, so these Hills should clearly not be underestimated.

We are now out of the rural wilderness and into the urban one. The danger of breaking a leg remains much the same, but now it’s from getting run over by a car rather than from falling off a hill.

From Tillicoultry, I continue south a bit to Clackmannan. If I have read the map correctly, another disused railway track running east, roughly parallel to the A907, should take me all the way into Dunfirmline. Then it’s a case of following Route 1 of the National Cycle Network south across the Forth Road Bridge and on into Edinburgh until I reach the 251m high Arthur’s Seat in Holyrood Park. OK, you have probably realised by now that I’m a sucker for any hill, however minimal. However, I am seduced by the knowledge that I will get a fantastic view of the city from here.

Indeed, I may even have a little break in Edinburgh (but not my leg, ideally).

I’m not quite done with this section yet, as now I need to turn southeast to Gorebridge. Not much chance of off-road walking here! However, yet another disused railway track seems to start at Gorebridge and continue in the same direction, which should keep me off-road until I get to Galashiels, 18 miles away as the crow flies. There must be a lot of unused trains tucked away somewhere around Edinburgh!

As fortune would have it, a well-known long-distance walking trail, the St. Cuthbert’s Way, passes through Galashiels (not to be get mixed up with the Southern Upland Way, also passing through Galashiels, which is shown by a dotted red line in the AA Road Atlas). St. Cuthbert’s Way is initially followed southeast in the general direction of the A68 for a distance of 16 miles, passing though Newtown St. Boswell’s, along the famed ‘Dere Street’ Roman Road and past Ancrum and Bonjedward until it gets to a point approximately 2 miles east of Jedburgh. The path then turns roughly northeast so that after another 10 miles, having passed through Morebattle and Primsidemill, I should eventually get to Kirk Yetholm.

My feet are beginning to ache just thinking about the ‘St. Cuthbert’s Way’ bit. I’m already having nightmare visions of trudging endlessly along a seemingly infinite Dere Street in a totally featureless landscape, and starting to imagine myself as a long-suffering Roman foot soldier. Give me hills anytime. I hope that I am wrong, that my imagination is running wild, that I am being totally unjust about the landscape and that it will be much more interesting than its sounds.

Well, Kirk Yetholm signals the end of this particular section and the start of the next. I estimate the distance between Fort William and Kirk Yetholm to be about 196 miles, but I’m not counting the inevitable deviations. OS Landranger maps 41, 42, 51, 52, 58, 65, 66, 73 and 74 will be used to navigate.

St. Cuthbert’s Way continues its way to the coast, but I have more southerly-orientated ideas which involve walking the length of Britain’s first officially designated National Trail, the Pennine Way.

Kirk Yetholm to Edale

Well, if you read to the end of the last section you will know that Kirk Yetholm is the northernmost point of the Pennine Way. Edale, just 14 miles west of Sheffield, is the southernmost point.

Between these two locations is 268 miles of tough walking. The Pennine Way is sometimes described as the backbone of Britain. Although the mountains may not be of Scottish Highland standards in terms of elevation, the route is nevertheless reputed to be difficult. Blanket bog, that I might have hoped to see the last of, makes its reappearance, but I look forward to meeting a few more challenging peaks.

The Pennine Way is well described in the two National Trail Guides, ‘Pennine Way North’ and ‘Pennine Way South’, both written by Tony Hopkins and printed by Aurum Press. These books include strips of the relevant OS maps. The route is also clearly indicated by red dashes on the AA Road Map, which is much easier for the general reader to follow.

The path slips (hopefully not literally) in a southerly direction along the west side of the Cheviot Hills along the English/Scottish border, across the The Schil (605m) and with a slight detour to visit the 816m Cheviot, the highest mountain in Northumberland, along the way. It continues to hug the border for a further 12 miles, generally following a southwesterly direction, crossing Windy Gyle Hill (620m) until turning sharply south towards Byrness. Scotland is now behind us and we are firmly in the Northumberland National Park. The path’s southerly orientation is maintained through Bellingham until it meets Hadrian’s Wall, near to the Roman Fort at Housesteads.

For the next 8 miles the Pennine Way turns east, following the same route as the Hadrian’s Wall path, before turning south again after Greenhead.

I have trekked the length of the Hadrian’s Wall Path before, but in spite of having indicated earlier that I didn’t like to walk the same route twice, I make a definite exception here. The Housesteads to Greenhead section of Hadrian’s Wall is, in my view, the best bit. The path runs along the top of the crags and offers spectacular views in good weather, especially from the Wall’s highest point at Windshields Crags, 345m above sea level, not far from Haltwhistle. Let’s hope for good weather.

The Way maintains it’s generally southerly direction, roughly following the line of the A689 until it meets Alston, and then on to Garrigill and Dufton, taking in the substantial Cross Fell (893m) and Great Dun Fell (847m) along the way. Just east of Dufton is a U-shaped valley place called High Cup Nick, apparently the most impressive feature on the northern section of the Pennine Way. Once again, let’s hope for good weather when I pass it as I head towards Middleton-in-Teesdale.

Then it’s more-or-less south again, following the path through Sleightholme and the western side of the Yorkshire Dales National Park. This will take me through the villages of Keld, Hawes (OK, this one’s really a town), Horton in Ribblesdale and Malham. It will also take me across Great Shunner Fell (713m) and Pen-y-ghent (693m). The latter is one of the Yorkshire Three Peaks, along with the nearby Whernside (736m) and Ingleborough Hill (736m). The Yorkshire Three Peaks Challenge involves hiking a circular route that takes in all three summits within a period of 12 hours. Typical routes are between 23 and 26 miles long. It is usual to commence at Horton in Ribblesdale, where an antique clocking-in machine at the Pen-y-ghent café records the start and finish times. Will I be tempted to try this? Ask me again sometime in August. Since the route is circular, I can at least leave my main rucksack behind (I also have a very lightweight daysack that doubles as a dry-bag).

Anyway, back to the route! From Malham it’s due south out of the National Park near Gargrave and on to Thornton-in-Craven, Lothersdale, Ickornshaw, Stanbury and Charlestown, close to Hebden Bridge. Don’t some places have such lovely sounding names?

Still continuing south, I will pass through Rishworth Moor and Moss Moor (straddling J22 on the M62), then Close Moor, and into the Peak District National Park. Now it’s across the A635 and, after passing over Black Hill (582m), the path crosses the A628 near Crowden (a place not shown in my 2002 edition of the AA Road Atlas, but it’s 3.5 miles east of Tintwistle). Then it’s the final stretch across Snake Pass (the A57), over the Kinder Scout plateau and down into Edale.

So, here endeth the Pennine Way. With luck I will be meeting friend Jim about here for a little R&R in Sheffield. I will certainly be needing it by now.

Edale to Chipping Campden

Amazing as it may seem (it certainly amazed me, but then I’m easily amazed), it is possible to hike all the way between Edale and Bath and barely set foot on a road. In Scotland I would easily believe this, but through one of the most dense and industrialised parts of England…?

So, how is it done?

Firstly, walk to Castleton, 3 miles southeast of Edale via some local footpaths. Here you meet the northern end of the Limestone Way, which needs to be followed south towards Wheston. The Limestone Way gets a bit confused with the Pennine Bridleway around here and ends up heading off to Miller’s Dale, past Taddington to Moynash, then southeast to Youlgrave.

I plan to switch allegiance to the Pennine Bridleway just south of Wheston. This passes through Wormhill, Blackwell and Chelmorton, where it is joined from the east by the Midshires Way. The combined route continues slightly south of the A515 until it passes just east of Arbor Low Stone Circle.

I wave farewell to both the Pennine Bridleway and the Midshires Way at this point, leaving them to continue southeast along their common route. I, on the other hand, will turn south, bravely following Route 68 of the National Cycle Network through Heathcote, past Biggin and Alsop en le Dale, until I reach Tissington. If it happens to be a weekend then this could turn out to be the most hazardous bit of my trek, dodging the speeding, armour-clad mountain bikers wearing designer-sunglasses that are much too dark to actually see through.

At Tissington I rejoin the Limestone Way, which seems to have done a little detour to Matlock in my absence. It must have been all that confusion near Wheston that sent it the wrong way! Welcome back friend.

Back on track, we head south together through Thorpe, Mayfield, Ellestone and finally to the Roman settlement at Rocester, just 3 miles north of Uttoxeter, where the Limestone Way ends. Rocester is apparently the home of JCB, but I don’t think the Romans used them to build their fort there.

The Limestone Way may be no more, but a new path, The Staffordshire Way, enters Rocester from the east and continues south. I feel so guilty changing partners so readily, but this new mistress offers to take me through Uttoxeter, Abbots Bromley and Colton to Rugeley. She then heads off back west again, so that was a rather brief acquaintance. I feel so used!

Fortunately salvation is at hand because the Heart of England Way passes just 3 miles south of Rugeley, connected by a minor road that passes through Slitting Mill, and a footpath. I join the Heart of England Way near Castle Ring Fort and Gentleshaw. It initially takes me east to Lichfield, before turning southeast to Weeford and Kingsbury, then south to Whitacre Heath, Shustoke, over the M6, then the A45 just east of Meriden (where the original Triumph motorcycles were once built) to Berkswell and Balsall Common. Catch breath here! Now it’s southwest to Baddesley Clinton, High Cross, Lowsonford, Henley-in-Arden and straight on to Alcester. Phew. The 2.5 mile section immediately preceding Alcester seems to be shared with the Monarch’s Way and the Arden Way, so there must be a shortage of footpaths around here.

The final bit takes me south to Bidford on Avon, southeast to Long Marsden then south again through Mickleton to Chipping Campden, where I finally arrive at the northernmost end of the Cotswold Way.

This little walk has enabled me to tiptoe 118 miles right through the middle England’s industrial heart without disturbing any of the machinery along the way.
I have used OS Landranger maps 110, 119, 128, 139, 140, 151 and 150 to plan the route.

Chipping Campden to Bath

This is the Cotswold Way, and like the Inverness to Fort William section, it ought to be relatively straightforward. The route heads generally southwest passing through Winchcombe and close to Cheltenham and Stroud until it gets to Dursley. It then heads directly south past Chipping Sodbury to Bath.

In retrospect, I may have to retract my description of the route being straightforward. It actually snakes wildly between the two end points, literally doubling the ‘as the crow flies’ distance between them to a hefty 102 miles. Indeed, after completing this section, it may prove an effort to learn how to walk in a straight line again. Anyone who enjoys a celebratory drink after completing this walk should definitely avoid driving afterwards since they would undoubtedly fail the ‘walk in a straight line’ test should the police stop them.

I will be using the Harvey ‘Cotswold Way’ map for this, but the route is clearly shown by a red dotted line in the AA Road Atlas.

Bath to Land’s End

Although the elevation may be very much less, this final section of the trek has much of the route-finding difficulty of the very first section through Scotland. Having already walked the length of the South West Coast Path (SWCP), I plan this time to walk right down the middle of Devon and Cornwall. A shortage of defined paths going in the right direction is a real problem. There are some, but they are relatively short and need to be stitched together in order to develop a complete route. At least I don’t expect to find as many bogs as in Scotland, although I will be crossing Bodmin Moor (or should I call it Bogmin Moor?).

The route has been devised, more-or-less, by drawing a straight line between Bath and Land’s End and trying to find whatever paths I can which are close to this line.

Initially, I will join the Limestone Link path at Bathhampton, some 2 miles northeast of Bath. This path follows the River Avon south past Claverton and then turns west at Monkton Coombe, to pass through Midford, Coombe Hay, Dunkerton, Camerton, Hallatrow, Hinton Blewitt and West Harptree. From here I leave the Limestone Link and join the south-going Monarch’s Way to East Water, Wookey Hole and Wells. And yes, in case you were wondering, this really is a continuation of the Monarch’s Way I mentioned earlier. It’s surprising how old friends keep on meeting on these long distance hikes.

One mile south of Wells I leave the Monarch’s Way (again) to follow National Cycle Route 3 which passes midway between Coxley and North Wootton, taking me to Glastonbury, where I join the Samaritans Way South West. Rather a mouthful this, but I follow it anyway, initially south to Street, and then west past Greinton to Chedzoy. From here, I join another bit of National Cycle Route 3 that takes me south(ish) through North Newton, Durston and Creech St. Michael, from where I can follow the Bridgewater and Taunton Canal westwards into Taunton. Good news! I can pick up the West Deane Way at Taunton and continue my westerly trek past Bradford on Tone and Langford Buville. I leave the West Deane Way at Apply, near Kittisford, picking up National Cycle Route 3 yet again. This continues south through Greenham and Westleigh, following the route of the Grand Western Canal as it meanders southwest and then west through Ayshford, Sampford Peverell, Halberton and ultimately Tiverton.

From Tiverton, it’s south along the Exe Valley Way, hugging the east bank of the River Exe until Bickleigh and then crossing over to reach Thorverton on the west side. It’s hard to avoid a bit of road walking from here as I head west towards Crediton via Shobrooke. I proceed through Crediton to Yeoford and pick up a short section of the Two Moors Way just north of Hittisleigh, but continue on to Spreyton before veering south a little to reach South Tawton and Sticklepath. Here, I meet the combined Tarka Trail and The Dartmoor Way that take me right into Okehampton.

I have a friend, Alan, living in Okehampton who, if he is not on holiday, will undoubtedly be there to greet me with flags waving, trumpets blasting, topless cheerleaders waggling their bits - you know, the usual sort of welcome. Of course, he might not have the time to arrange all this, so a beer might have to do. Perhaps even two, to represent the path that I will be following next - this one in its entirety - the Two Castles Trail. This 24 mile route links the medieval castles at Okehampton and Launceston, passing through the villages of Bridestowe, Stowford and Lifton along the way.

From Launceston there will be more road walking to do, initially south to Trebullet, then southwest through Coad’s Green to North Hill. Now I’m going to have some fun. I don’t precisely know what route I will use to cross Bodmin Moor’s Smallacombe Downs and Browngelly Downs, but the aiming point will certainly be Warleggan - such a wonderfully macho name for a village.

Back road walking again, I will pass Mount and Cardinham, and I might even visit Bodmin if time permits, but otherwise I’ll keep south of the A30 to pass through Bodwen, Bugle, Nanpean, St. Stephen and Laddock to reach Trispen and St. Erme. Then it’s over the A39 and due south through a wood to reach Idless where I can pick up and follow National Cycle Route 32 down into Truro, a perfect place to enjoy a brief rest before the final few days of walking.

From Truro I will head southwest along my old friend National Cycle Route 3 to Bissoe. Now, I had originally intended to proceed from here in almost a straight line towards Penzance and then on to Land’s End. But that was before I discovered that the point-to-point distance between Dunnet Head and Lizard Head is greater than between Land’s End and John o’Groats. I just know that if I’ve got this far I won’t be able to help myself, so I may as well describe the route that I just know I will be compelled to take. So here it is:

From Bissoe I continue southwest past Ponsanooth to Stithians, Rame, Seworgan and Gweek, at the head of the Helford River. Then it’s south through Mawgan, past Goonhilly Satellite Earth Station and over the Goonhilly Downs to Ruan Major, Lizard and finally Lizard Point.

With a satisfied grin on my face, I will then bounce up to Mullion by the most direct path I can (remember, I have already walked the SWCP). If I am lucky, I might be able to talk the management of the Mullion Cove Hotel into donating a meal and a bed for the night. When Brian and I stayed there during our SWCP walk, we both agreed that the quality of the food was extraordinarily good.

Continuing around the coast, I have to join the SWCP at Gunwalloe to get around The Loe, the largest freshwater lake in Cornwall, separated from the sea by Loe Bar. I will remain on the SWCP past Porthleven and Praa Sands and leave it just before Cudden Point.

From here it’s Marazion, Longrock, around the outskirts of Penzance to Madron and on to Sancreed. I will pay a visit to the Carn Euny Settlement north of Crows-an-Wra before enjoying the final leg to Sennen and Land’s End.

All done.

Well, what now? Take a few pictures. Make some phone calls. Hang around restlessly for a while. It’ll probably be raining anyway. I’ve been here before and it’s not my favourite place, so I suppose it’s just a case of waiting for a bus back to Penzance, which has the nearest railway station. Of course, I could walk!

The length of this final section will be 266 miles and it has required the following OS Landranger maps: 172, 182, 193, 181, 192, 191, 190, 201, 200, 204 and 203.